Frizzy Locs: How to tame the mane

If you are experiencing excessive frizz or more frizz than usual this may be due to your washing routine. It could be a variety of factors but a common factor is that you may be leaving your cuticles open after washing.

Cuticles are fish like scales that are on every strand of hair, it is important to open the cuticles to put moisture in however it is double important to close the cuticle as if they are left open your locs can get even more drier than before you started.

In the loose natural hair community, the washing routine is very regimented with all types of wash and seal methods. The aim of all the methods is to achieve moisture lock in.

In the world of locs the techniques are slightly different, but the principal is the same. For instance, we don’t use cream-based conditioners or butters, but the aim is to put moisture inside the loc then lock the moisture inside your locs with an emollient which is usually an oil. I call this the loc and seal method.

Loc and Seal Method

Wash

For this method to be most effective you need to wash your locs with a natural sulphate free clarifying shampoo, this will cleanse the locs of residues and relieve build up. The aim is to cleanse the locs well so that the cuticles can open to receive moisture.

Condition-Moisture

To condition or to add moisture to locs you use water-based conditioners or tonics such as herbal infusions or aloe vera spritz (you can use aloe gel if you palm roll).

As mentioned above

never use cream-based conditioners as these cause build up inside the loc. When conditioner creams get trapped inside the loc shaft they turn into powder, over time this build up will become heavy and will be a burden on your root-bed, this is a contributory factor as to why some people can experience hair-loss when they have locs.

Also, the softeners in most of these types of conditioners can cause your locs to become over moisturised and too soft which can impact on the strength of your locs or create weak points which will impact on the locs ability to hold weight.

Seal in the moisture

Once you have taken the steps above it is essential to seal in the moisture, otherwise the moisture will evaporate and your locs will remain dry. To seal in the moisture you can use a carrier oil or glycerine, glycerine is a humectant which helps to retain moisture so it is excellent at taming frizz.

Humectants do need to be used with caution, if you live in a hot climate humectants will draw in moisture into your locs making them swell, which will create even more frizz! In colder climates where there is an absence of moisture in the air the humectants will search for moisture within the loc, this can be extremely detrimental as it will causing drying within the loc. If glycerine works for you then brilliant you have found a solution that will bring you endless joy, however if you notice any of the effects I mentioned then stop using glycerine straight away.

The type of oil you use should depend on your porosity. If you have low porosity use a light oil such as almond oil. If you have high porosity use a heavy oil such as castor oil. The oil acts as an emollient keeping the hair cuticle covered so it becomes difficult for moisture to escape.

How to Loc and Seal

Wash

Wash locs with warm water and sulphate free cleansing shampoo. Avoid using overly hot water as this will open up your cuticles too wide.

Moisturise

Immediately after washing, dry some of the excess water out your locs, then apply your moisturiser.
Rose water is a brilliant moisturizer for locs, you can also try herbal infusions which you can make yourself. To make a herbal infusion you would use a cold tea, such as, green tea and then add your favourite essential oils.
If you have a thick water-based conditioner you can dilute until watery and use this. You have many options the only rule is it must be water based.

Seal