Get to know your Porosity: make the right choices

Porosity is your hairs ability to retain moisture. Porosity is determined by whether your hair cuticles are laying flat, are open or raised. It is important to understand your hairs porosity level as once you have a grasp on this you can master the techniques and products that will allow you to maintain optimum moisture within your locs. Without knowing your porosity you can end up spending money on products that don’t work for you.

There are three levels of porosity, low porosity, medium (normal) porosity and high porosity.

Low Porosity

Defining features:

Tight cuticle layer
Water rolls off
Hair takes long to dry
Prone to product build up

Hair that has a low porosity has a hard time absorbing moisture, it is possible to see water sit on top or roll off low porosity hair. Once the moisture is absorbed low porosity hair tends to retain it for quite a while, hence you do not need to re-apply moisture frequently with low porosity hair.

Low porosity hair’s ability to retain moisture means that product can build up quickly. On the other hand, because of the challenges low porosity hair can have to actually absorb the moisture it can also be prone to dryness.

How to work with Low porosity hair:

Use a clarifying shampoo to remove product
Immediately after shampooing apply moisture such as aloe juice or rose water
Seal with a light oil such as almond oil.

This routine usually provides enough moisture until the next shampoo.

Best oils for low porosity hair:

Grapeseed Oil
Jojoba Oil
Argan Oil
Almond Oil

Normal Porosity

Defining features:

Cuticle layer is looser
Right balance allowing right amount of moisture in

Hair that has normal porosity is easy work, you apply the moisture, it is absorbed, and it stays there, simple. If you have normal porosity you are blessed as you should have a fairly straight forward regime. It is recommended that you top up your moisture maybe every 3 days.

How to work with normal porosity

Use clarifying shampoo
Avoid hot water – this opens up cuticles
Immediately after shampooing apply moisture such as aloe juice or rose water
Seal with a light oil such as almond oil

Best oils for normal porosity hair:

You should generally stick with the light to medium oils recommended for low porosity

hair, however if you want to achieve longer moisturisation you can also try some of the oils recommended for high porosity.

High Porosity

Defining features:

Cuticle layer is raised
Highly absorbent
Hair often feels dry

I know many people who fall into this category, if you are one of them you are free to scream, now. I also think this may be the category of hair porosity that produces the most product junkies, it is difficult not to be a product junkie when you have high porosity as you are always on the lookout for that product that can provide lasting moisture.

With high porosity hair the cuticle is wide open, so the moisture goes in quickly and can leave just as quickly as it went in.

People with high porosity hair tend to moisturise their hair regularly, some every day. Sealing in the moisture and trying to close the cuticle is the priority for this type of hair.

How to work with high porosity

Use oil infused shampoos - this will limit the moisture loss during cleansing
Avoid hot water as this will open the cuticle even more
Immediately after shampooing apply moisture such as aloe juice, rose water or water-based leave in conditioner
Seal with heavy oil such as castor oil

Best oils for high porosity hair: